Executive Care Inc.

on November 12, 2012

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Welcome to our October edition.

I am grateful for the many positive comments I have received about these articles, especially since it is a joy for me to share the designs I have created with you. Each completed landscape is so unique that I want to take a few days off to just enjoy it. Of course, my schedule doesn’t permit that, but writing these articles gives me the opportunity to reminisce about the challenges and the solutions. As I remember these things, I also think about the relationships and how blessed I am to have clients who become my friends.

Since this series began, we have been looking at landscapes that are at least two years old. We are now turning our attention to a landscape that was completed this spring. Despite its relatively young age, this garden looks more mature because we used larger plant material for the installation. Also, the relative narrowness of the yard causes the plants to appear bigger. Bearing these things in mind, I am very content with the way that this landscape is filling in. I am also pleased to feature it as a “normal sized” yard, having shown larger than average ones over the last few months. It is important to me to show that whatever the size of the yard, or how ordinary it may look today, it can be completely transformed and become an important asset to family life.

As with every Executive Care landscape, this design addresses the needs and desires of the client in a functional and aesthetically pleasing way. In order to make that happen, we have to understand and solve the various design challenges by thinking “outside the box.”The challenges with this yard existed in several areas. First on the list was the limited size of the yard, as compared to all the things that our clients wanted to achieve within the space. For instance, they requested a larger patio where their extended family and friends could visit. The existing patio was far too confining, especially since they were planning a backyard wedding reception for their eldest daughter. Next on the list was a garden. They wanted to teach their pre-teens about the rewards of patience through gardening. Also Jessica, the mother, enjoys reading outdoors, so I wanted to create a private “Jessica place.” But Jessica was not the only one who wanted more privacy. Having recently removed several large trees, the family now could see their back yard neighbor’s two-story home. This made them feel “exposed.” Finally, in the pool area, which is not shown, they wanted more of a lush, tropical feel than the Northern Cal/Mediterranean theme they’d selected for the rest of the yard.

Although I’ve given you quite a list, the individual challenges can be put into two categories. First, we needed to make a smaller yard feel bigger by getting more use from it. Incorporating all of the homeowners’ requests was going to take thought because the distinct features would need to be balanced in accordance with the size of the yard. That way, everything looks proportionately right because it “fits” the space. And second, we needed to establish two different themes. This would require using different plants to create each theme, but also using some transition plants that could be used in both areas to tie the landscape together.

So these were the main challenges, plus my own desire to increase the size of the planter beds to bring more interest to the yard. Since the lawn was by far the largest aspect of the existing yard, it made sense to “buy space” by removing a portion of it. Determining that portion was the trick. I needed to “paint out” the landscape changes first, which literally means that I use spray paint to sketch out the design in the actual space. This work is done after the drawings have been approved but before the actual work begins because it gives the designer and the clients a life-sized picture of what the landscape will look like. It is much wiser to do this than to redo bender board, irrigation etc. because something that was pleasing on paper is problematic in the actual space.

This concludes our discussion for this month. Next month we will focus on the development of the landscape, starting with the hardscape. In the meantime, it is time to remove your summer vegetable garden. And if you are planting a winter garden, October is the perfect time to get it in. With our mostly mild winters, there is a whole selection of vegetables that can be grown. If you have not done it, I would encourage you to give it a try. Until next time, Good Gardening.

Designing by Theme Part V

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on November 12, 2012

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Welcome to our September edition. I trust that our August article provided interesting insights as you went with me “behind the scenes” to see the kinds of challenges faced in putting together a good design. Client needs can be similar; but client personalities, the style of their home, the size of their yard, and many other factors are all unique. That’s one of the things I love about my job. Every project gives me the opportunity to meet new clients, and to tackle new and unusual challenges that keep me on my toes.

Last month we discussed the challenges of this Contemporary Asian themed landscape, which included the clients’ preference for non-traditional Asian design, their request for palms, the H.O.A. restrictions on palm height, and the imposing size of the home as compared to the size of the planter beds. Meeting these challenges required some research and some redesigning of the planter beds. In order to make the house and garden appear as though they “fit together,” it was necessary to substantially increase the size of the planter beds. In last month’s Before and After pictures, this difference is clearly seen.

Now let’s discuss the actual design. I want to point first to the four palms in the front planters, one each of two varieties used on either side of the front entrance. They cover the face of the house, so as they mature they will compliment and reduce the vertical starkness of the home. Each will compliment the other. Beyond that, the landscape continues with the north side ending at the street next to the driveway (not shown), but the south side (shown) continues quite a ways. Because of this distance I was challenged in finding a way to unify the yard. I needed to find a design element that would say, “This is the start, and this is the finish.” So I selected two Sabals, a most unusual trunk-less palm that is featured in this month’s “Let’s Talk Plants,” and two fruitless Olives. In combination, they make the perfect “bookends” for the design. The Sabals are so different from anything else, and in contrast to the gray foliage of the Olive tree, they stand out, and together easily define the beginning and end of the landscape. The dry stream bed, which is more visible on YouTube (see note below) adds more visual interest and a sense of depth to the landscape, while also providing for drainage.

I also want to point out the water feature, it is quite unique. During my initial conversations with the clients, we discussed water features at length. Using my portfolio, I was able to show them a variety of types and sizes, pointing out the differences between them. Knowing that my clients liked the relaxing sound of moving water, I was surprised that they were most drawn to a large cobble-filled basin that acted as a “stage” for several rock spire fountains. They loved the look of cobble covered by water. With that input, I suggested we create a Reflection Pond. Each end of the reflection pond would have a grouping of three rock spires, the tallest would be the fountain, and the other two columns would be “splash rocks.” This would allow the water from the fountain to splash onto the medium rock spire and then fall onto the lower rock spire before ultimately splashing into the Reflection Pond. We made it all from “scratch,” as there were no forms we could use. We also added an auto fill at one end so that evaporation would not be a problem.

I’m pleased with how the Reflection Pond turned out—not only because of how it looks, but also because of how it sounds. It is a quiet, gentle, even subtle sound that brings a real sense of tranquility to the landscape. I am equally pleased that it serves as a reminder that every challenge can be seen as a problem or as an opportunity. It all depends on your perspective. This is true in all of landscaping, and in life as well.

There are many other things I want to show you in this landscape, but cannot do within the confines of this article. So we have decided to video the entire project and to provide a more in-depth discussion of it on YouTube. Those of you with smart phones can scan the QR code provided to access the video, or visit the web address noted below “Let’s Talk Plants.” This will give you an opportunity to see the landscape in its entirety.

Before I close, I want to thank everyone who used our services this summer. We have stayed very busy, and are truly grateful for the loyal client base we have through House2Home. Your referrals are also much appreciated. So thank you. And until next month, Good Gardening.

Designing by Theme Part IV

Published

on November 12, 2012

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Welcome to our August edition. I trust that your summer is going well and that you are finding fun ways to spend time with your family.

Before we begin, I want to note that when I am choosing landscapes to discuss, I am very conscious of showing a variety of different sized properties. I want you to be able to get a vision of the changes that could occur in your own yard, whether it is larger than average, average, or smaller than average. The chosen theme may not be what you would select, but you can appreciate the transformation. And you can see that all yards, regardless of size or design challenges, have the potential to be beautiful and inviting.

The landscape we looked at in June and July was normal in size. We are now turning our attention to a larger yard with an unusual theme. I call the theme ‘unusual’ because I have only created it once. It was designed for a family whose home was modern in design and décor. In their living room, the cream-colored couches were contemporary, having straight lines and clean accents. The tables, also cream, were rectangular with straight edges.

If you saw this room, you might expect that the family would ask for a contemporary looking landscape. Instead, they expressed a strong desire for an Asian design, while making it clear that they did not want a traditional Asian landscape. Though I was a little surprised by their choice, I understood how I could use the Asian aesthetic, which incorporates lines and angles, to complement the straight lines and angles of their home. . While I was thinking about this, the husband added that he loved palms, but did not want a Mediterranean feel in the garden.

So my challenge was to create a non-traditional Asian themed landscape that included palms. This made plant selection very tricky because I needed to communicate the Asian aesthetic without using traditionally Asian plants such as Japanese Maples, Pine trees or Bamboo. Also, I learned that the H.O.A. did not allow palm trees that grew above 15’.

To make this design work, I needed to do some research, and enlist the help of my favorite nurseries. I also found a new nursery that specializes in unusual Palms, which was perfect for this project. In addition to getting information from my suppliers, I needed to look at the plants I already knew with “new eyes”. The result is what you see here. This is my interpretation of a Contemporary Asian themed landscape.

Normally when we talk about a new landscape, we begin with changes to the hardscape, e.g., extending the patio, or adding walls. With this job, we did not need to change the hardscape. The proportions between hardscape and softscape were good. However the proportions between lawn and planter bed were not. This is often true of older landscapes, but it is also seen in new construction. A large lawn is an easier ‘fix’ for builders than doing a complete landscape. Unfortunately, as with this yard, to decrease the lawn size to increase planter bed space requires work. Besides removing a portion of the lawn, you also must reposition the sprinklers, change to smaller nozzles, put in new bender board, etc.

Since it is a lot of work, you might wonder why I would recommend it. The answer is that the home itself is very bold and large, requiring a sizable border to soften it, making the house look like it ‘fits in,’ and not just there. Without increasing the planter space it would be very easy to overlook the landscape and just see the home. For this reason, we decreased the lawn both in length and width, giving us room to create and to develop our theme. So now when you look at the home, you see the landscape and the house as one entity. As the landscape continues to grow (it is shown here at two years old), the landscape and the home will continue to become more unified, with each complementing the other. This is what a good landscape is supposed to do.

This finishes our article for this month, covering the theme and challenge of this design. Next month we will discuss the details of the landscape, some of the cool palms we used to capture the theme, and a special water feature that I have never discussed in print before.

May you enjoy the last few weeks of summer, even as you get your family ready for a new school year. Remember to keep your watering for your garden consistent. Irregular watering can spilt the tomatoes. For fruit trees, a good soak and then a drying out period is best. Do not overwater, as the fruit will lack sweetness and taste watery. Until next month, Good Gardening.

Designing by Theme, Part III

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on November 12, 2012

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Welcome to July’s article. I have received many positive comments about our recent expansion to a second page. It allows me to be more informative, and have a little fun with “If Plants Could Talk,” a short column that expresses what plants would say about themselves if they could. For readers, it will be informative. How often do you wonder what plant would work well in a particular spot, be it sun or shade, in wet or dry conditions? And will that plant grow to the size you want, whether that is to stay relatively small, or grow big enough to cover an eyesore? This new column will answer questions like these as we move through our themes. I trust you’ll find value in discovering unusual and eye catching plants, or learning something new about plants you have seen before. Having worked many years at wholesale nurseries in various capacities, the column certainly is fun for me to write.

While we’re on the subject of plants, I am reminded that many people ask whether summer is a good time to plant. They are concerned, of course, about our hottest days. To answer, I ask them to pretend they are a plant. Then I ask where they would rather live, in a hot plastic container or in the ground, which is cooler? I explain that a layer of bark acts like insulation, further protecting the plant from the heat. So as a plant, it is much nicer to be in the ground than in a nursery pot. And with that timely question answered, let’s begin.

In last month’s main article we looked at the hardscape of this Asian theme garden, specifically discussing howthe theme guided the decisions we made about color and types of hardscape. Before we move on to the plant selections, I would like to add another important way that theme guides hardscape selections, and that is with regard to proportion. In other words, how much cement versus flagstone or ornate gravel is appropriate? Sincethe Asian theme is best expressed with natural, not man- made materials, you would rightly conclude that the use of cement should be minimal. In reality, the decision is not so simple.

While theme determines the look and feel of the garden, it cannot neglect functionality or the clients’ wishes. For these reasons, this landscape actually includes a fair amount of cement, much of which does not show in the pictures. The issue then becomes one of union. How do you “tie the knot,” in a sense, between theme and functionality? Here I was able to fool the eye by breaking up the cement patio into three distinct shapes. This way, you really never register its actual size. The flagstone patio, with its color strong accents, actually stands out more, even though it’s proportionally smaller. So theme helps with proportions, and gives ideas on how to deal with aspects of the landscape that are related more to functionality than to theme.

Now let’s talk plants.

When you think about an Asian landscape, what plants come immediately to mind? Japanese Maples would probably be first on your list, then maybe Bamboo and Bonsai. Interestingly, Bonsai is more an art form than a specific plant; it is an ancient craft of growing and shaping miniature, ornamental trees. In addition to these Asian icons, there are others that may be less familiar, such as the Atlas Cedar Serpentine. This hauntingly beautiful tree is bluish grey in color and grows in a weeping, twisting fashion. You can see a picture of it here, left side, and also in last month’s article, at the top corner of the right hand page. (There are other varieties of this plant that grow upright, so be careful to specify Serpentine if this is the look you want.) Other strongly Asian plants are Aucuba Japonica Variegated and Serpentine or weeping cherries. Although neither of these is pictured here, images are easily found on the Internet.

In an Asian themed landscape, these classically Asian plants are expected. However, it is important to understand that you are not limited to them. In fact, there is a wide array of plants that are not specifically Asian, but integrate beautifully. A great example is the Mexican Grass Tree, which was featured in last month’s “If Plants Could Talk.” In the context of this landscape, it has a distinctly Asian look and feel. It can be equally effective in a Mediterranean landscape, such as the one featured in our May article.

Another great example is the Dwarf Pomegranate, two of which can be seen in the main picture here; they are the taller plants with the orange flowers. Again, this plant is not specifically Asian, but works well within the context of an Asian theme. The word I want you to remember is context. The context for any theme is established with the “classics,” both in soft and hardscapes. Once the context is clearly defined, you can begin to incorporate plants (and other materials) that have a similar look or complimentary feel, which brings depth and visual interest to the landscape. This explains why I can, and do use of certain plants for more than one theme, plants that can “take on” the characteristic of that theme. Since availability at the nurseries fluctuates, being creative is a must, and it’s fun.

Thank you for spending your time with me today. Next month we will continue our discussion on theme, as we consider another landscape. Remember as your vegetable garden starts to produce, to fertilize it lightly on a monthly basis. This helps to keep the plants strong and producing. Until next time, Good Gardening!

Designing by Theme Part II

Published

on May 30, 2012

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Welcome to our June edition and to the summer season. Summer is typically the fun season when families go on vacation, be it camping or flying to distant locales. For those of us in landscaping, the warmer days keep us on a “diet plan,” so that by the end of summer we are fit and trim.

Before getting started with this month’s article, let’s do a little review. In last month’s article we discussed the importance of working within the context of a theme. A theme is “a distinct, recurring and unifying quality or idea” that guides our selections, from hardscape shape and color, to the tree and plant selections. Without a clear theme, it is hard to unify the landscape. When doing renovations, the theme facilitates decisions about what will remain in or be removed from the yard, ensuring that money will be spent wisely.

For new landscapes, working with a theme is just as important. As an example, I just received a set of detailed plans from a friend who designs, but does not install. I was grateful for his trust and for the referral. He gave me permission to change the plan where needed, and to determine the theme in conjunction with the preferences of the clients. The plan is very detailed having seat walls, sidewalks, a water feature and a patio. Still, the finished look, which is determined by the theme, was undecided. Without establishing a theme, it would be hard to do an accurate estimate, and the finished landscape would not be a personal creation reflecting the owner’s personality. I believe this is where many jobs go astray, and where client and contractor have a falling out.

In addition to keeping the client and contractor “on the same page,” a theme also helps with making choices that can save money. If, for instance, the drawn plan is outside the budget, knowing the theme allows me to change out more expensive material for less expensive, yet maintain the desired look and feel. So once I explained all this to my new clients, they could see how a theme keeps the design elements cohesive while personalizing the landscape and respecting the budget. With that in mind, let’s discuss the landscape at hand.

The landscape in view has an Asian theme. Because we offer a quarterly maintenance service, I am able to stay in contact with our clients and watch as their gardens mature. I just visited these clients in May, so the pictures are current. The growth between the initial installation in October 2000 and today is quiet striking. The garden has really come into its own. Because we space plants in a way that accommodates their mature size, it takes three years of growth before it fully reflects the original vision.

As we look at this landscape, let’s discuss the hardscape first. Remember, the hardscape selections need to tie to the theme. Asian hardscapes have subdued colors—a lot of grays and blacks, often contrasted with cream colors, such as cream colored gravel against gray or black flagstone or statues. I have found that this look is often too stark for American tastes. So part of my job as a designer is to adapt themes to fit into our culture. Here I have used the classic Asian hardscape colors as accents, as with the rock spire water feature. Elsewhere, I have introduced more color without compromising the overall feel. For instance, the cement patio is a tannish color that compliments the strong contrasting colors of the selected flagstone, which has grays, burnt oranges, and dark browns. It’s a darker, stronger colored stone, yet it has more warmth and visual appeal than a mono colored stone. The cement stepping stones serve as a transition from one patio to the next, breaking up the space.

If you are familiar with Japanese Ikebana (a minimalist form of flower arrangement), you know that the Asian aesthetic is to do much with little. One of the ways this is expressed is to change the shape or usage or the same material. As an example, Bamboo can be used in the landscape as a plant, the canes can be made into a water feature, or can be used to transition from one landscape feature to another as we did here in combination with lilies, grasses, gravel and boulders. The rock spire fountain is a dark, smooth stoned fountain with some defining lines that blend nature and order. The pots (viewed in “If Plants Could Talk”) are a dark matted color (as opposed to glossy). They keep the mood while softening the hardscape. The other features, a waterfall and a dry stream bed, are assets in any landscape, not just in one that is Asian themed.

Next month we will discuss the plants, my favorite part of each and every landscape we do. Lastly remember to get your garden in, and plant aphid prone vegetables, such as squash, next to herbs or green onions. The scent helps ward off the aphid. Until next month – Good Gardening.

New Growth for the New Year

Published

on May 15, 2012

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Welcome to our March edition and our third and final series on preparing our yards for spring. Based upon the title, I should be talking more about the growth of lawns and plants; however, for healthy lawns and plants, irrigation is a major component. We can apply all the fertilizer we want, prune the plants, aerate our lawns, etc., but if the irrigation is not right, the results at best are fair and at worse, we have dead plants and lawns. So growth has everything to do with irrigation, and proper irrigation has everything to do with the topics we have been covering. Also please note that this is Part III; I would recommend that you read Part I and II. The articles are on my website at www.executivecareinc.com under publications or on Home Improvement & Remodeling Magazine’s website at www.HomeImprovement-Magazine.com. With that covered, let’s start.

Last month, we left two items under lawn sprinklers not covered: seals and “sinking sprinklers.” Seals are a very important part of the sprinkler, and each manufacture has its way of designing them into the sprinklers. For example, Rain Bird’s seal is incorporated into the cap of the sprinkler. If you look at a
Rain Bird sprinkler, the top has a white inner ring. This is the seal, and as the “pop-up” part of the sprinkler rises, this seal prevents water from coming out. When the seal becomes aged via use and sun, it no longer seals, and water can be seen leaking out along the edge of the pop-up and seal. If not changed
out, the leaking will increase to the point of becoming a small stream of water, which not only wastes water, but it prevents the pop-up from fully rising and the nozzle from watering the full distance. Toro sprinklers have their seal as a separate piece, under the cap. The cap must be removed to be
able to exchange the seal. Combined with the seal is a retainer that holds the seal in place, so there are two pieces, but the rubberized one is the seal. Only if the retainer is damaged would you need to replace it; otherwise, it’s fairly permanent. The Toro seal, as the Rain Bird seal, becomes hardened through use, no longer sealing, and water can be seen coming from the base of the pop-up. Checking and exchanging seals is virtually never considered by the homeowner, mostly for a lack of awareness of how important this is
to do. Seals in general last between three to five years before they need to be changed. It is a simple process requiring two channel-lock wenches—one for unscrewing the cap and one for gently holding the sprinkler body. These seals often cost the same price as buying a complete sprinkler, so if you are not close to a sprinkler store where you can buy just the seals, the box stores sell the whole sprinkler that you can dismantle and use the seal or just swap out the sprinkler.

The second item is “sinking sprinklers.” Now we know sprinklers do not literally sink, though visually it appears as such. Year after year, less of the “pop-up” portion is visible, and in some cases, this pop-up portion is only an inch or two above the lawn. At this height, it cannot water without the lawn blades interfering, blocking the spray and causing poor coverage during watering, especially a few days prior to mowing, when the lawn is the tallest. So if the sprinklers can’t “sink,” what is happening? It is called thatch. It is most prevalent in lawns that are overwatered and fed high nitrogen. It is the accumulation of dead lawn that develops below the growing portion of the lawn, causing it to rise up. When a lawn has excessive thatch, it becomes a “high-maintenance” lawn, requiring more fertilizer, more water (which adds to the problem), and more chemicals to treat because it becomes more subject to infestation and diseases. Also it requires the lifting of the sprinklers by adding extension risers and couplers. So what can be done? For the lawn to get to this point, it required several years of overwatering and high nitrogen. Getting back to an acceptable thatch level of one-half inch or less will require several years of purposeful care. Rental yards have what is called a “dethatcher,” which is comprised of tiny little blades (not sharp) that spin at a high speed, “beating up” the lawn, and thereby pulling out the dead lawn matter from the base. If you can imagine a high-powered electrical rake, it is much like that. And because of the violent action that is used, thatch reduction must be done over a period of time, allowing the lawn to recuperate and heal itself. The best time to do this is early spring and early fall. About two weeks prior to dethatching, apply a moderate amount of 15-15-15 fertilizer (leaves/roots/cell structure is to what each number corresponds). Apply the fertilizer moderately, remembering that overdoing the fertilizer was one of the contributors to this problem. You can expect that each time the lawn is dethatched, between one-fourth inch to one-half inch of dead-lawn matter will be removed. If the thatch is one and one-half inches tall, it will require two to three separate attempts to remove it. If you use pre-emergent to control lawn weeds, apply this after dethatching. Once the thatch has been reduced, you will find the lawn returning to a healthy state and will be easier to mow and to maintain.

This concludes our lawn-care tips. As always, I hope I have helped. If you need assistance in implementing these tips or any of the tips mentioned in the prior articles, please do not hesitate to call. Spring, one of our more busier times, has started early with our warmer temperatures. So if you need help, or are planning to landscape or re-landscape your yard, I would suggest that you call sooner if possible, rather than later for an appointment.

Thank you and Good Gardening!

To Drip or Not to Drip

Published

on May 15, 2012

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Welcome to our April edition. From January to the present, we have been covering in detail irrigation-maintenance concerns. I find it worthwhile to review these topics with you, to make it easier for you to find the needed information without a lot of research on your part. I know many of you keep Home Improvement & Remodeling Magazine as a reference and I hope, as a reader, you have also found these articles beneficial and keep them as reference guides. I am writing to everyone with these articles, whether you do it yourself or just like to be well-informed when you meet with your landscape professional. I hope I have been helpful.

As a professional, I have discovered over the years, that in many of the renovation jobs we do, we find the drip system was installed incorrectly. Whether it was done by a home owner or another landscape professional, it is too bad that money was spent on a system that has had, or will continue to have constant problems. In my experience, there is a right way and there is a wrong way to install drip systems and all too often it is done the wrong way. So let’s talk drip and get it right!

Drip systems have seven components, only seven, but they have to be in this exact order for the drip to do its job. Let’s start with the valve. How does a drip valve differ from a lawn valve? It does not, at least not the “workings” of the valve, which we covered last month. What varies are the additional components that are added to the valve that make it serviceable for drip irrigation. To the outgoing side of the valve, a filter and pressure regulator are added. The filter is used as you would imagine, to filter minute debris from the water. The pressure reducer does exactly what it implies, drops the water pressure down.
Without it, normal water pressure is enough to blow off the emitters.

Next is the 1/2″drip line, which is the size you will find at the “box” stores, or the 5/8″ drip line, which is the size you will find at the “specialty irrigation” stores. Each size is specific to the type of store, so if you buy the 1/2” drip line from a box store, and you need to expand or repair your drip line, you must continue to buy the drip line and parts from a box store, not a specialty irrigation store. Continuing from the 1/2” or 5/8″ drip line is a 1/4″ coupler that is barbed. It needs to be inserted into the 1/2″ or 5/8″ line using a punch—a plastic piece with a point, which causes a small hole in the pipe into which to insert the coupler. From the coupler goes the 1/4″ line AND IT GOES NO LONGER THAN 18 INCHES to 3 FEET. I have seen the 1/4″ line travel up to 6′ feet uphill. The plant at the end of such a length will always be “short changed” from lack of water. I have also seen drip emitters in place of the coupler. So that is a great idea—reduce the water flow from the start, and let’s see if it makes it to the plant with any volume? Pardon my attitude, but this stuff just gets to me. So continuing, at the end of the 1/4″ line goes the emitter. Now the emitter is extremely important, so spend the money. The emitters come in different color codings, indicating different gallon-age rates. Depending upon the brand, the color codings will vary. So stay with the same brand and do not mix and match. For new plantings, we use the following procedures:

for 1/gallon, we use not one BUT TWO 1/2 gallon emitters on opposite sides of the plants; for 5/gallons, we use two 1/gallon emitters; and for 15/gallons, we use two 2/gallon emitters. Without giving into attitude here, I cannot tell you how many jobs we have redone with one emitter per plant. Since when does the plant only grow roots and leaves on one side? Finally, we use a drip stake that goes just behind the emitter on the 1/4” drip line, keeping it off the ground and easier to view.

Lastly, and a very important step, is the programming of the timer. With lawn, we can visually see it go brown and add more water. With the plants, it is not that easy. So we need a base—an amount of time that makes sense for landscapes in general. Homeowners will tell me they water 10 to 12 minutes, just like they do the lawn. I used to be shocked at this, but now I expect it. So let’s take the mystery out of programming for drip. Just like lawn irrigation, we can quantify the amount of water we are adding to the plants. All gallon-age rating is done on an hourly basis (gph: gallons per hour). Two 1/2 gallon emitters in one hour will water one gallon of water, so 1/2 hour’s time is equivalent to 1/2 gallon of water, which is sufficient for newly planted 1/gallon plants. For 5/ gallons, the gph is two gallons. In a 1/2 hour’s time, we are applying one gallon of water, which again is sufficient for newly-planted landscape. Fifteen gallon plants figure out the same way. Now for the future, depending upon the plant selection, this setup will work for about two to three years. By the end of the second or third year, an extra 15 minutes of water will need to be added. At times, I also recommend upsizing the emitters during the fourth year. In concluding, there are more comments I can make about layout, valve selections and positioning, and length of runs, but the above tips are the heart and soul of proper drip installations.

So as always, I hope this helps and that it is not too technical. My field is definitely not “rocket science,” but there are steps, as in all fields, that must be followed to achieve the end goal. If you need help with this, do not hesitate to call. Thank you for taking the time to read. Good Gardening….

Thinking Ahead (Design Challenges Part XIII)

Published

on April 2, 2012

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Welcome to our March issue. It is hard to believe that spring is already here. The trees and shrubs are blooming and the neighbor kids, my little friends, are playing their street games again.

Seeing the children reminded me of when our girls were little. Wherever we were, whatever we were doing, my wife, Lisa, always seemed to be prepared for whatever happened. Somehow, she always knew exactly what the girls would need, and planned for it. This kind of forward thinking is what a good landscape designer does, too. Let me explain what I mean.

A successful landscape—one that grows more beautiful with time—always starts with a clear understanding of what plants need in terms of climate, levels of sun or shade, soil quality, and water . This list may seem pretty basic, but the plant kingdom is vast, and each species has its own unique requirements. A designer who has a strong working knowledge of plants is able to select plants whose needs are compatible with other plants and with the given environment. The designer also uses his knowledge of plants to provide for the future needs of the plants, such as space for proper growth and adequate water.

“Why water?” you ask. “Shouldn’t that be a given, something not to worry about, as opposed to a future need that requires consideration?” That is a good question. If the plants are going to thrive, water is definitely a present need. At the same time, it is also a future consideration. To assume that ample water always will be available is not wise, especially given our regional weather history. As an immediate example, we all know that this last winter was a dry one. Even if we have a wet spring, I expect that there will be water restrictions by summer.

Water restrictions are not uncommon in Northern California. As a landscape designer, it is part of my job to plan for them. This is why I routinely recommend drought-tolerant lawns for new installations, and also suggest plants that are not overly thirsty. This is also what inspired me to write a series of articles on making your landscape “water restriction proof ” during the 2009 dry spell. These articles included one on turf grass hybrids that, once established, only need one good watering a week. I also examined “the next generation” of sprinkler nozzles, called Watermisers. And I discussed the importance of drip irrigation which delivers the desired amount of water directly to each plant, with minimal water waste. I also have some articles from 2012 that cover the same subject. If you are interested in reading any of these, the articles can be found on my website under Publications. For now, it is enough to know that I take planning ahead very seriously. In my mind, it is good stewardship, not only of our natural resources, but also of the faith my clients put in me.

So with the idea of planning ahead well-planted in our minds, let’s take a look at this month’s featured landscape. I like to rotate between bigger and smaller properties, so that everyone has a chance to see design concepts that will work well in their own yard. The property we are looking at now is a smaller one. I will be focusing on the front garden with this edition. We’ll look at the back yard next month.

As the before picture shows, my clients started with a standard builder’s landscape. They wanted something more personal and visually exciting. They specifically requested that the design be lawn-free because they’re

allergic to grass and to the maintenance of it. Although this decision was made for personal reasons, going lawn- free, or using a drought- tolerant lawn, is a great way to “water restriction proof ” a garden without sacrificing beauty or personality.

The personality of this design comes from its blended Northern California/Asian theme. It was a perfect choice for this couple. The husband grew up in Washington State and enjoys the “look” of Northern California with mixed ornamentals and conifers. His wife, who is Asian by descent, enjoys the influences of that theme. By bringing the two themes together in one design, I was able to express the couple’s individuality as well as their unity.

The theme here is what I would call a perfect fit, but not all of my clients have such an obvious choice. So, like water, finding the right fit is on my list of immediate and future needs. The goal is always

to create a design that will please today as well as tomorrow. For this reason, proportion in a smaller
yard is very important. The design elements and plant selections need to fit, without overwhelming the space. This includes everything from boulder selections to

Time For Thought

Published

on March 6, 2012

. 0 Comments

Welcome to our March issue. It is hard to believe that Spring is already here. I want to start off a little differently with this article by asking a question. The question is, what are the key ingredients for business success? An initial answer would be that it would depend upon the business and the end goal. However, there are general statements or goals that would benefit any business. Being unique or original, satisfying and/or surpassing expectations, great quality at a fair price etc., are all parts of a successful business model. But the one that I want to address in our March edition is being Proactive. How does this fit into the context of landscaping?

Landscaping, whether in Arizona, where the landscape is serene and the plant combinations consist of drought tolerant plants or in a tropical area such as Hawaii, where the landscape is full, lush and very green, must be done with the knowledge of the climate zone and its plant types. There are plants that are indigenous to those areas, as well as plants that have the “qualifications,” or better said, the adaptability to grow in those zones. No region, with maybe the exception of the Sahara Desert, is without its native plants. We can go anywhere and enjoy good landscapes, that invite you out or calms you down, and causes you –almost subconsciously–to be in a good mood. High end resorts, regardless of their location, invest a lot of money and time in their landscapes for this reason, and they are very good examples of the diversity, beauty and adaptability of the plant kingdom.

Apart from knowing the correct plant species and how to use them, it is also part of my job to pay attention to our weather and be ‘proactive’ in regards to those changes. Permanent climate changes I am not qualified to determine, for much of our weather is cyclic. However seasonal changes that affect us I am qualified to deal with. It is no secret that our rainfall has been limited this year, and though I have not heard of any water restrictions (as of 2/23) I do expect them. So , is it being proactive to install large areas of lawn? A case in point: I was just at a local nursery yesterday, and someone had bought approximately 2,200 square feet of sod. That is an area of 50 feet by 45 feet, and represents a fair amount of labor and materials when you consider the grading, drainage, irrigation, topsoil and lawn, to risk losing. I was quite upset, especially when there are so many good alternatives to installing a lawn like this.

Two years ago we had water restrictions, and I wrote a series on making your landscape “water restriction proof” which involved hybrids of lawns that, once established, only need one good watering a week. I also discussed next generation sprinkler nozzles that have the trade name of “water miser nozzles.” I also discussed the correct way to install a drip irrigation system, which, when done correctly, is the best system for the plants. The water goes right to the plant, we are able to quantify that amount, and nothing is wasted. So what is my point? Being proactive involves adapting to what nature gives us. Living within our “natural means” is only good stewardship. The good news is that we have the tools and the plants to do so without sacrificing the beauty and the pleasure of the outdoors.

So with the idea of being proactive, let’s start with this month’s landscape. I like to rotate between larger yards and smaller yards, giving everyone a chance to see concepts and designs that can potentially fit into their yards. Having just concluded a three part series on a larger yard, I am excited to share with you the concepts and designs that went into this smaller yard. We will start with the front this month, and review the back next month. The front, as the before picture shows, was the standard builder’s landscape. Which, while everything else gets settled with new home ownership, works. Our clients had been in the home for about six months, and were now ready for a change. Not wanting any lawn due to allergies as well as because of the maintenance they requested a lawn free landscape design with a Northern California/Asian blended theme. Often people ask how a theme is determined. With these clients it was a matter of preference. The husband grew up in Washington state and enjoys our Northern California look, with mixed ornamentals and conifers. His wife, Asian by decent, enjoys the influences of that theme. So a mixed theme is easy to understand. In this case it was more a matter of personal preferences; in other cases it depends on trying to match the surrounding area, or trees that will remain, or the outside architecture or interior decor of the house.

In designing a smaller yard, the challenge is making the different design elements and plant selections fit into the proportions of the yard. Everything from boulder selections, to stream width and length, to the maturing heights and width of plants and the amount of night lights comes into greater focus with a smaller yard. It is fun because of this challenge, but not easy. It is very easy to overcrowd a smaller yard in later years if all of these elements are not taken into account. Initially “over planting” looks nice, filling out the smaller yard and making it appear a little bigger than it really is. However, as the landscape matures, and the plants grow, just the opposite begins to happen. The plants crowd themselves and the area begins to appear smaller. The challenge is to resist the temptation to give a “bigger” look to the yard, and design for the future, which, for me, is the third year of growth. By then the plants are at the size that I want to maintain them. The trees of course will continue to grow, but by the third year, they have come into their own beauty. And if cared for properly, will only become more of a focal point in the landscape.

Next month we will discuss the back yard. Please however read the new column as we expand into two full pages. For next month the new column will be titled ” If Plants Could Talk ” which is going to be a fun column for you plant enthusiasts. However for this month, I feel it very important to give a review on drip irrigation—not as exciting, but it is the life line of your plants. Also this January and February I covered in detail lawn irrigation tips in the articles on my website under ‘Publications.’ Call if we can help, and please let us know if the request is for a family activity soon to happen, or if you have time. We are needing to rank our response according to client need.

OK, that’s it for now, have a great month, and Good Gardening!

A Time for Growth, Part III

Published

on March 6, 2012